Developed to be the ultimate house pet and companion, the Russian Tsvetnaya Bolonka is a small, sturdy, balanced dog, slightly longer than tall. The breed appears disheveled due to the wavy or curly coat. He moves gracefully with the tail carried over the back. He is friendly to all and shows no sign of aggression. He is sweet, loving, intelligent and willing to please.
Size, Proportion and Substance:
The body is slightly (not more than 15%) longer than the height at the withers, just off-square, measured from the point of shoulder to the ischium. The height is up to 10 ¼”. Height at withers over 11 inches is a disqualification. He is moderately boned. The ideal weight for males and females is 7 - 9 pounds.
The expression is sweet, alert, and intelligent. Eyes are dark brown. Lighter brown color is allowed in brown,fawn and cream dogs. Blue or partially blue eye(s) are a disqualification.The eyes are of medium size, rounded, and set on the frontal plane. Eyelids are tight. Eye rims are black or match the coat color. Cheeks are slightly rounded. Ears are moderate size, V shaped with slightly rounded tips, set moderately high, lay close to the skull and carried dropped. When alert, the ears lift at the base. The head is in proportion to the body. The skull is slightly prominent and slightly rounded, with a well defined stop. The muzzle is short, slightly more than one third of the length of the head, slightly tapered to the nose. The nasal bridge is straight and wide at the base. Lower jaw is moderately wide. The nose is small, vertical in profile, with nostrils that are well opened. The nose is solid black or matches the coat color. All shades of solid brown pigmentation are allowed in brown dogs. A spotted or flesh-colored nose is a disqualification. The lips are tight, with edges that are black or similar to the coat color. A scissors bite is preferred; a level bite or a slightly undershot bite is tolerated. A complete set of incisors and canines is desired. An overshot bite or wry mouth is a disqualification.
Neck, Topline and Body:
The neck is average length, sloping, dry, and well-muscled. The topline is level with a strong, broad, well-muscled back. The body is compact with a deep chest that is moderately broad and oval shaped with the brisket extending to the elbow. Ribs are well sprung. The underline is moderately tucked up. The loin is short and slightly arched. The croup is rounded, medium length, rather broad, slightly sloping, and muscular. The tail is medium length, set at moderate height, and curls over the back so the tip is close to the back. The tail is completely covered by coat. The tail may not be docked. A missing or docked tail is a disqualification.
Legs are straight, parallel, and moderately wide when viewed from the front. The shoulder blades are well muscled, and their angulation with the shoulders is 100-110 degrees. The forelegs are straight and parallel, with elbows tight to the body. The length from the withers to the elbows is equal to the length from the elbows to the ground. Pasterns are strong and nearly upright. Dew claws may be removed. The feet are small and round with arched, tight toes. Pads and nails are dark.
The hind legs are straight and parallel. The hocks are strong, and moderately angulated, medium in length. They are set moderately wide when viewed from the rear. The rear pasterns are medium length and upright. Dew claws may be removed. The feet are a little smaller than the forefeet, oval shaped, with arched, tight toes. Pads and nails are dark.
The coat is long, dense, thick, soft, and supple, with a well-developed undercoat. The coat forms large curls (preferred) or may be very wavy. The head has a well-developed beard and moustache. Complete lack of a beard and moustache is a disqualification. The coat is never deliberately parted. Hair on top of the head may fall naturally or be held up with a small bow on the top of the head. Feet may be neatened.No other trimming of the coat is allowed.
All colors are permitted except solid white, spotted, parti-color or merle. Small white markings on the toes and forechest are permitted. A solid white, spotted, parti-color or merle coat color is a disqualification.
The movement is smooth and flowing with good reach in front and strong rear drive.
The Russian Tsvetnaya Bolonka is even-tempered, intelligent, friendly to all, and should never be shy or show aggression of any kind.
· A spotted or flesh colored nose.
Voted on and Approved by RTBCA 06.17.21 [ pending AKC approval]
The history of the Russian Colored Lapdog, bred in Leningrad, is inseparably linked with the formation of all dog breeding in this city.In the early 1950’s a group of enthusiasts set out to create a domestic decorative breed. Decorative dog breeding in general in Russia had long been in decline and developed under difficult conditions.Zhanetta Avgustovna writes about the 10 years (1961-1971) of the initial development of the breed:“During the years of Soviet rule in Leningrad, almost all exhibitions displayed, along with others, dogs of decorative breeds. However, the number and, most importantly, the quality of dogs at these shows were far from the same.At the first post-war exhibition in 1946, only two decorative dogs (Lapdog and Toy Terrier) were presented, and at the exhibition, in 1947 only one decorative dog was exhibited. These figures testify to the extremely difficult conditions in which the fans in Leningrad began their work on breeding dogs.The origins of the creation of the Russian Colored Lapdog, lie in the 1950s, and more precisely in 1951 when a group of dog lovers in the city of Leningrad whelped a black Lapdog named Tin-Tin from a mating of two coffee and white dogs. At that time, there were very few phenotypically suitable, dwarf dogs, and therefore the white color dog Trifon was brought to Leningrad from Hungary, and Zhuzhu, coffee-colored, was purchased from the circus that toured at that time in Leningrad. Some foreign dwarf breeds were also used, for example, Maltese, Bolognese, Shih Tzu, and some others. By the end of the 1950s, by the careful and rigorous selection, mainly by phenotype, and later on by the quality of the offspring, a fairly uniform population was obtained, which received the status of a breed group.”______________________________________________________________
Although there were Russian Tsvetnaya Bolonki imported into the United States before 2000, many did not have registration papers nor were their owners interested in developing the breed in this country. It was not until the year 2000 when AKC Judge and Havanese breeder, Mrs. Candace Mogavero, became interested in the breed and imported a female, Ladushka Ocharovashka from Elvira Romanenkova, did interest in the breed become apparent. The following year another Havanese breeder, Ms. Patricia McRae, joined Ms. Mogavero and two more dogs were imported, Ladushki Rostok and Ladushki Kudrjashka. By 2002 Ms. Mogavero and Ms. McRae were joined by two more Havanese breeders Ms. Jane Falkenstein and Ms. Nancy Holmes. Three more female Bolonkas, Aljapka, Ladushki TsaTsa, Ladushki Toska, and one male, Ladushki Schlegel were then imported from Russia. Ms. Mogavero and Ms. McRae planned to breed and show the breed in the rare breed organizations and to one day bring the breed to the AKC for recognition. They knew to do this they needed the dogs registered in the US and to do that they needed a breed club. They formed the North American Russian Tsvetnaya Bolonka Club and established a registry so the dogs could have American registrations. Most of the litters born were under Ms. McRae’s Ahavapicaro kennel name, while Ms. Mogavero did most of the showing of her dogs under her kennel name of Faireland Kennel and promoting the breed in the public eye. Over the next few years, more breeders became interested in the development of the breed in this country and joined Ms. Mogavero and Ms. McRae in registering their imported dogs and puppies with the NARTB club. In the year 2015 the AKC accepted the breed into their Foundation Stock Service (FSS) and the club’s name was changed to the Russian Tsvetnaya Bolonka Club of America. The Russian Tsvetnaya Bolonka is also actively shown on the Rare Breed Circuit where it is recognized by the American Rare Breed Association (ARBA) and the International Canine Kennel Club (ICKC)Today the Bolonka breed has a growing population of enthusiasts who hope to one day reach the goal of full AKC recognition.
· 1951 – the appearance of the first pair of Lapdogs of black and brown colors;
· 1952-1961 – steady growth in the population of Russian Colored Lapdogs; hard selection work is underway to form the characteristic appearance of the breed and to consolidate the desired traits;
· 1958 – the first entry in the breeding book of LOOiR under the name “Bolonka”;
· 1962 – provisional rules for the examination and appraisal of decorative dogs were introduced and approved by the Kenological Council of Leningrad under the State Forest Inspection;
· 1962-1965 – work is underway to develop a standard for the breed group;
· 1965 – at the 50th jubilee exhibition, 278 dogs of 16 breeds are shown, including the Colored Lapdogs;
· 1966 – approval of the standard by the All-Union Dog Council;
· 1967 – the appearance of Colored Lapdogs in Moscow, at the 2nd All-Union Exhibition;
· 1969 – at the 51st exhibition held by LOOiR in Leningrad, Colored Lapdogs – 15 dogs; · The end of the 1960s and the beginning of the 1970s – the population of Colored Lapdogs is already about 100 dogs that are phenotypically similar to each other;
· 1973 – the 57th exhibition of hunting and decorative dogs: 10 Colored Lapdogs are exhibited;
· 1974 – the 58th exhibition of hunting and ornamental dogs: 43 Colored Lapdogs are exhibited;
· 1978 – 62nd exhibition of hunting and ornamental dogs: 24 Colored Lapdogs are exhibited;
· Since the late 1970s and early 1980s Leningrad was joined by Moscow in the development of the breed.
Gradually the Bolonki spread to all cities of Russia and beyond.
The Bolonka is a fairly healthy breed, however there are some tests that as a reputable breeder I highly recommend. Through the OFFA (Orthopedic Foundation For Animals) dogs can be tested and CHIC certified.
The Bolonka are like most small breeds and they DO NOT need a high protein dog food to maintain a good weight. They should be fed twice daily (not free fed) with a quality food. As a kennel our dogs are fed a combination of RAW and Kibble diet refraining from using Chicken as it seems to cause issues with yeast infections. Our dogs are on a primarily fish base diet. They can be a bit picky when spoiled. We do not recommend feeding human table food as this will increase the desire for human food and not the quality food they should be eating. They are given filtered water as a hard water can also cause issues such as kidney stones.
Supplements are not needed, however we do use a supplement for skin/coat as we show our dogs and want the coat in it's best condition. Currently we use Missing Link Skin/Coat Silver.
We do not believe in giving daily snacks or treats. These seem to only cause weight gain and/or a picky eater. "I mean I want a candy bar and not my vegi's as well" . So we recommend that treats are kept to a minimum. Bones or bully sticks are a great way to reward a dog and will keep their teeth in great shape as well as hours of fun chewing.
Bolonka's have a beautiful soft coat with big curls which is part of their charm as a companion breed. They do not shed like most dogs, however they do loose hair daily. Therefore brushing is needed to remove dead hair, no matter the length.
The Long coats are beautiful however they require daily brushing to remove all tangles/mats. Matting causes skin issues which in turn can cause health issues. They also require more frequent bathing.
The Short or trimmed coat still require brushing at minimum weekly to keep matting from starting and a bath twice monthly to keep clean.
I highly recommend the follow:
We learned the hard way that the Bolonka coat really should not be blown dry. This can dry the coat which will cause breakage. We prefer to air dry our dogs for atleast two hours after bathing. Then finish up with a cool dryer if needed, but prefer not to.
I highly recommend the follow brushes
Cheap stuff is just that CHEAP, and will damage the coat. With that said, we always use a quality shampoo and conditioner that are diluted 8 parts water 1 part shampoo or conditioner. A spray Leave-In conditioner is highly recommended for the in between bath brushing sessions. Also diluted so it does not become heavy and weight the coat down or cause it to attract dirt.
We recommend the Dremel for nail trims as you are less likely to quick the nail. Being small dogs who don't get out on hard surfaces we recommend using the Dremel twice monthly to keep the nails short. Cat nail clippers also work well for those dogs who are not to keen on the Dremel. Long/overgrown nails can cause breakdown of the feet and other issues. .